All Image and Online video Credit: Yohji Yamamoto
Is there anything new beneath the sun? The respond to is indeed – albeit maybe not radically so. Evidently Yohji Yamamoto retains digging deep to haul out additional of that specific magic that he’s been generating around the past 50 decades, every time with a fresh new choose on the previous. Learn tailor, master of avant-garde and quite a great deal master of his very own innovative destiny, the inimitable Yohji Yamamoto has lengthy overtaken the 5 ten years mark in his extraordinary contributions towards trend. Pushing 80, Yamamoto has witnessed umpteen major planet events, found an infinite variety of tendencies arrive and go and unfailingly keeps inspiring a multitude of designers. His eponymous brand name is immediately recognizable – period following period – with its unique silhouettes and dark, rebellious, eccentric overtones and this Autumn Wintertime 2022/3 was no exception.
The execution and orchestration of Yohji Yamamoto’s runway exhibit proved nevertheless once again that the hand of the master was present in every single and each nuance and element – from the layout of the legendary clothes to the picked tunes for the display. And this learn was as deliberate, as unhurried (Yamamoto’s superb shows are notoriously lengthy) and as meticulous as he’s been around the past 5 decades. This was outdated-school, beautiful execution, with products walking seriously slowly in their trademark flat boots or trainers on a blank canvas, crystal chandeliers overhead – so that the viewers could get in and enjoy every single one fold and crevice, each individual impeccable twist and drape, and each individual genius learn stroke in the layering and juxtapositions that composed each and every ensemble.
Denim – an previous Yohji staple – received the Yohji therapy – blue and black denim was bleached, layered, asymmetrically lower and deconstructed to resemble a new breed of shirt attire and jackets with ragged and irregular hems, backs and fronts at odds, several in blend with Yohji’s beloved black Japanese cotton. The voluminous ‘milkmaid’ skirts that are so usual of the designer’s silhouette were being at any time-existing. Virginal white – head to toe, and in some scenarios mixed with black – shirts and cleverly personalized jackets ended up layered about frilled, complete skirts and trousers, with white trainers and clever, squiggly antenna-like headpieces finishing the picture.
Lace in the form of 3-dimensional, tactile leggings as nicely as lacy sleeves, dresses and skirts included an additional layer of exquisite sophistication to this darkly New-Romantic and allegorical selection. The most fantastic ensembles came in the condition of puffer coats with billowing, outsized cuffs, which had been nothing small of pure sculpture. Tiny shocks of colour ended up additional to the blend in the condition of the odd pair of gloves, ribbed sweater or polo neck jumper. The display ended with designs in densely padded umbrella-eque skirts, levels of sashes draped across their shoulders, their headpiece an umbrella finish with rain!
Just one can’t enable but question whether the sage that is Yohji Yamamoto was making an attempt to explain to his viewers in 2022 that there’s the metaphorical stormy temperature in advance, and most effective to be ready? No question Yohji admirers will reply to this message and lap up a further treasured selection of potential classics from one of the real masters of structure of our time.
Enjoy Yohji Yamamoto’s exhibit listed here: